20250827 – Salmon Glacier and Fishing Bears

We slept in and had a nice morning at the Ripley Creek Inn. I found a bakery across the street and purchased some muffins and pastries for breakfast. They were good but not similar to European types. The pups got their morning walk and then we headed over to Hyder Alaska to drive to the Salmon glacier. We stopped by Fish Creek Viewing area to check to see if any bears were feasting, but the rangers suggested coming back after 5pm. So we made the drive to Salmon glacier.

we met a nice couple up there from Texas in a truck camper setup and we compared adventures. We’d seen them and they’d seen us at various points across Alaska. They had been traveling since early May and were staying a few days at each place. They had traveled both the Dalton and the Dempster this year and everything on the truck survived.

We continued up the road as I had heard there was a mine we could drive into. It turns out that it was blocked off, but you could definitely fit Howie in there. We drove to a big mining operation and decided to turn around since the road ended on the other side of the valley anyway. When we stopped for lunch we noticed a helicopter hauling something to a point across the valley. We used the binoculars and found three sites on the rock face below one of the glaciers where some new mining was taking place. These are huge platforms mounted to the rock face. We watched the helicopter for over an hour bring supplies and take baskets from those sites. Mining is different than 100 years ago when mining started here, but miners are still a hearty bunch.

We worked our way down the mountain and stopped at Fish Creek Viewing and the rangers said to go have dinner and try in a couple of hours. We drove to the end on the Hyder boat launch and Kathy made Albondigas and we watched the seals fish in the harbor. I took a cool picture of an old pier and looking back up the 90 mile Portland Fjords.

We finished and cleaned up around 7 and when we got to Fish Creek Viewing area the rangers said a mom and her cub were fishing. He was gracious to let us in without paying with a promise we’d hit them up on the way out. It was great to finally see some bears fishing and chomping on salmon.

it was growing dark and on the way out we met up with a nice guy and his wife who have been in the road in their 5th wheel for 4 years. They move every 1-3 weeks and work while on the road. We learned a lot from them and how to save costs, visit places, etc. We have not been doing tours because we have the pups and our budget doesn’t allow for it. They save on gas by parking for a while and then take tours occasionally. This Friday they were taking a fishing boat out and would get crabs, salmon, and halibut. The charter is $1200 but is split between fishermen, so it was costing them $400 each as another was joining them. They live to fish and have spent the summer in Homer, the Russian River, Valdez, etc filling their freezer. He said he had over 700 lbs they were taking back with them. Apparently personal use and labeled fish are ok to transport across borders. They told us stories about issues with cases of wine and the Canadians when they did not declare it. It was confiscated and to get it back they had to pay the import tax. It’s easier to just declare.

We got back to the hotel about 10 pm after a pretty amazing day. Here are some more pictures of the day.

https://www.overlandadventureexcursions.com/photos-albums/nggallery/album/20250827-salmon-glacier-and-fishing-bears

20250826 – Stewart, BC

We continued along the Cassier Highway for a second day and stopped for the night in Stewart, BC. This town was a place I wanted to spend a couple of days with Kathy just exploring. There is a great little place called the Ripley Creek Inn that I had seen when I was here in 2019 and wanted to treat us to a couple of nights there.

It is a cute little inn consisting of the 8-12 buildings on a city block interconnected with boardwalks, treed canopies, gardens, and a collection of interesting items from the past 125 years including old sewing machines, mining equipment, old transistor radios, and even a couple of tugboats. Such a cute place.

We looked around and relaxed in their yards before hiking on a local trail of boardwalks over the tidal marsh. We spotted more pink salmon in the creeks and watched a quiet harbor. Interestingly we found out the town of Stewart was named after a couple of American brothers that settled the area while the neighboring town across the border of Hyder, AK was named after a Canadian Engineer.

We finished our walk and took the pups to the camper. We had a nice dinner at a local pizza place. The pizza was interesting in that the meats of pepperoni I and salami were sandwich meats rather than what we were used to. It was good, just different and almost like a panini instead. We returned for some showers and a nice time in the Inn.

a couple of chickens roamed as well.

and of course, there were tugboats.

20250825 – Cassier Highway to Jade City

We turned south into CA 37, the Cassier Highway, to drive down the middle of British Columbia. The highway is less traveled than the AK highway, but is much more beautiful in my opinion. The lakes and valleys through the towering Rockies are beautiful at every turn. I stopped for fuel every couple of hours to keep the tank full and take a little break.

Around 5 we passed a car with a couple of ladies from Michigan that were looking under their car. We decided to stop to see if they needed help. They stated something was making a noise under their front end and noted they had had the brakes redone recently. I asked if they needed help and they agreed. When they moved the car I could hear the issue in the front and said it was likely the anti rattle pin and I could see it catching on the rim. We jacked up their car and I pulled the wheel off to find the clip had come loose and was bent and broken. I told them they could still drive it to a town that could get a part. The closest was Prince George, about 700 miles to the south. She took some pictures for her records and we put everything back together and sent them on their way.

We stopped for the night in Jade City at a free RV camp next to a Jade store. It turned out this area mines about 95% of the worlds Jade. They had tons (literally) of the stone in and around the place. You can get Jade slabs or earrings. Pretty stuff but also expensive.

I did not take and photos today, just a nice drive.

20250825 – Canadian campgrounds

We camped at Wolf Creek Campground just SE of Whitehorse last night. It’s a Yukon Regional Park official campsite. Every time I camp in a Canadian campground I am impressed. They are far superior to most all campgrounds I have experienced in the US National Parks, BLM, or FS. Tonight $18 CAD (which is about $12 US).

It’s funny because they are not much different except they seem to have more amenities for a lower cost. The camps are easily paid for with cash or with an app. Most have reserved sites and some first come first serve, so there is almost always a site for spontaneous travelers. Some sites have RV dumps and water available as well for free. And they are generally better set up and maintained.

AND there are wood sheds with wood available FOR FREE. US parks often don’t allow wood gathering and require you to purchase it from the camp host, bring it in from home (as long as its not too far so as to no bring in pests), or purchase it from the local store for a $7-10 cost per bundle, on top of the $20-24 campsite fee. A weekend at a US campsite will cost you $50-75 in fees and $50-100 in firewood if you burn nights and morning fires. Plan for a week and that could reach $400. Ridiculous. Everything in the US is behind a paywall, which I could understand for private campgrounds, but these are resources owned and operated by the Gov for the people.

In Canada it’s all included for $18 CAD.

And it’s not free market, IMO, it’s mismanagement of our government resources. What can we do to change this?

20250823-24 – Dyea and Skagway, goodbye Alaska

We stayed two nights in the ghost town campground of Dyea. This place was home to 5000-7000 folks during the gold rush years of 1897-1898. Along with Skagway, it was the land gateway to the Klondike. Skagway made it due to its deep harbor and the new railroad and roadway connection. Dyea died out and turned to farmland for a while. They tried to build a pier, but with it being over a mile long and still not into deep water, that has also fallen to ruin.

The campground is nice though. Quiet and remote. We did some reading in the nice weather, took a long hike through the trails of the town and gave the dogs some exercise. Kathy and I took an afternoon stroll to the salmon stream and walked in its waters and chased and caught some of the salmon. We had a pretty good couple of days there.

We packed up on Sunday and headed back to Skagway to get a shower at the recreation center. For $10 a day you can get access to the facilities and the showers. It was nice to get cleaned up. We also stopped by the grocery store for some tortillas, creamer, and sodas and then had brunch at a place on the pier that was suggested by the rec center attendant. Kathy had some king crab legs and I enjoyed some fish and chips while chatting with some locals and tourists.

We drove back up the canyon through Whites Pass and crossed back into Canada without the inspection from customs. We may be back in Alaska one more time, but this was the last big visit. It is lived and will be missed.

I was able to contact the old friend we missed in Whitehorse and we met up at Miles Canyon there for a hike. It was a beautiful day and we hiked 3 miles to another ghost town from the early days along the Yukon River.

It was already 7:30 when we set out to gas up, and were able to visit the RV dump and water station as well. We found an awesome campground at Wolf creek right out of town and enjoyed the Canadian Regional park for the night.

Here are some additional photos from the past days.
https://www.overlandadventureexcursions.com/photos-albums/nggallery/album/20250823-24-dyea-and-skagway

20250819-20 – Alcan South

We drove the 30 miles back up to Fairbanks to pick up Sean’s Rx and then had a nice lunch at a local burger place. We turned Howie south again and drove until about 6 pm on AK Highway 1. There were some beautiful rest stops along the way and we took a few pictures.

We found a nice little campground along the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge and met a nice couple from Michigan and another from Oklahoma. We didn’t see any big game, but there was a pair of Trumpeter Swans swimming around the lake.

There are lots of road repairs along the highway and several times we waited for pilot cars. I didn’t call it construction because the highway department up here is constantly dealing with road issues related to the seasonal weather. Freezing and melting of the land is not easy on the roads.

We crossed back into Canada on the 20th and continued South. We started to see Fall colors down here as many trees are turning yellow and the shrubs in the forests are orange and red. We found a nice wild beach campsite along Kluane Lake near the Congdon Creek Regional Park in the Yukon. We collected some wood, had a nice fire, and then retreated inside as the rain started. It rained all night. Tomorrow we cross back into the USA and arrive in Haines.

20250816-18 Day 7, End of The Dalton, Fairbanks

We left the Arctic Circle campground about 10 AM and headed the 190 miles back to Fairbanks. We arrive in Fairbanks around 3 and headed straight to the car wash. We planned to get cleaned up but we’d never stay clean with Howie in this condition.

The road salt/mud was caked on the body, frame, and all around the camper. $75 and 60 minutes later it was much better. I still will get underneath in the near future and work the frame a bit but for now this will do.

It was coming along 5 pm and we headed to a local campground for the night. We got a deal at this place, even though it was $40 with power, it included free showers. The dogs barely got to pee before Kathy was headed to the showers with her gear.

The next two days were expensive on the budget. We spent an additional $350 for groceries and supplies,;$25 on laundry (cheap really); $90 on campgrounds; $100 on diesel, propane, and truck supplies. Going to town costs money.

Sean had his final cardiology tele-appointment so we stayed in Fairbanks. We also had to fill prescriptions for Kathy and Walgreens in AK is not fast. Sean’s appointment results were fantastic with reports that the AFib was not permanent, his heart echocardiogram showed no issues, and the imaging/stress test showed no arterial plaque or other issues. The doc wants to keep me on the Rx so we will have to head back into Fairbanks to get those tomorrow.

We decided to head south a bit to get away from the pay campsites and to visit the North Pole. We enjoyed the Christmas store and all of the Yule spirit, got a few postcards, and then found a free camp next to the Salcha River. Here’s a picture from the Howie’s door.

here are some additional photos from the past few days.
https://www.overlandadventureexcursions.com/photos-albums/nggallery/album/20250816-18-day-7-end-of-the-dalton-fairbanks

20250815 – Dalton Highway – Day 6

We left after the swim in the Arctic Ocean and drove south. The weather was turning and snow was expected. We wanted to make it through Atigun Pass before we stopped but it ended up being too far. I think we ended up stopping at a rest area around 8PM. We woke up to two inches of snow on the camper the next morning. Fortunately we still had propane and Howie stayed nice and warm all night.

The road is well traveled and maintained due to the hauling that occurs so other than being muddy, the pass was beautifully blanketed in snow and the road was clear. We made it to Coldfoot in the late afternoon, fueled up, and pushed onward. I wanted to get back to Fairbanks because we were low on propane and were about 8 days in since a shower and 7 days since food supply, tank dumps, and fresh water.

The road was tiring to drive with the constant watch for potholes and dips. I managed to avoid most of them but one bad one bent the eye bolt on the repaired side. Fortunately no damage to the wood repairs was evident, but when we got to the camp at the BLM Arctic Circle Campground I had to attach the chain to the jack mount again as the eye bolt threads were stripped.

The pups were glad to get a walk in although it was slightly raining. We hunkered down for the night and slept well. The propane still managed to keep us warm all night.

here are some additional photos of the day.
https://www.overlandadventureexcursions.com/photos-albums/nggallery/album/20250815-dalton-highway-day-6

20250814 – PanAm Mile 0 – Prudhoe Bay, AK

Yesterday was an epic day for us. We spent a second night just outside of Deadhorse, AK because we had reservations for the shuttle up to the Arctic Ocean. Since we did not know which day we’d be there, I scheduled it when we arrived and it requires 24+ hours so they can receive clearance for us to enter the oil fields. It was definitely worth it as we slept in and rested until the tour started at 3:30. The day started out a bit sunny and then by 2 some clouds had come in and the temperature had dropped into the low 40’s.

I’m going to put Kathy’s text from her Facebook post in here as it perfectly describes our adventure.

Such an amazing day that will not be forgotten.

Yesterday we traveled to the Arctic Ocean to officially start our Pan-American journey. On the way to the beach (only accessible by shuttle and required a security clearance), we were able to see a heard of caribou being stalked by a grizzly bear. We also saw a red fox and numerous kinds of water foul along the way. Once we arrived at the beach both Sean and I took a quick dip in the ocean to commemorate the event. When finished, we were surprised to receive certificates declaring membership in the Arctic Polar Bear Club from the shuttle driver. It was an unexpected tribute for something we almost didn’t go through with due to the extremely frigid conditions, but we are so glad we did. On our way to the campground we witnessed a heard of wild muskox grazing off the side of the road. It was such a magnificent site. After we got settled in Howie, we toasted this extraordinary day and once in a lifetime occasion with a shot of Penelope bourbon (gifted to Sean by his coworkers to mark this event) and then as we readied for a peaceful and fulfilling sleep, it began to snow.

here are some photos of the day.
https://www.overlandadventureexcursions.com/photos-albums/nggallery/album/20250814-mile-0-prudhoe-bay-ak