20250827 – Salmon Glacier and Fishing Bears

We slept in and had a nice morning at the Ripley Creek Inn. I found a bakery across the street and purchased some muffins and pastries for breakfast. They were good but not similar to European types. The pups got their morning walk and then we headed over to Hyder Alaska to drive to the Salmon glacier. We stopped by Fish Creek Viewing area to check to see if any bears were feasting, but the rangers suggested coming back after 5pm. So we made the drive to Salmon glacier.

we met a nice couple up there from Texas in a truck camper setup and we compared adventures. We’d seen them and they’d seen us at various points across Alaska. They had been traveling since early May and were staying a few days at each place. They had traveled both the Dalton and the Dempster this year and everything on the truck survived.

We continued up the road as I had heard there was a mine we could drive into. It turns out that it was blocked off, but you could definitely fit Howie in there. We drove to a big mining operation and decided to turn around since the road ended on the other side of the valley anyway. When we stopped for lunch we noticed a helicopter hauling something to a point across the valley. We used the binoculars and found three sites on the rock face below one of the glaciers where some new mining was taking place. These are huge platforms mounted to the rock face. We watched the helicopter for over an hour bring supplies and take baskets from those sites. Mining is different than 100 years ago when mining started here, but miners are still a hearty bunch.

We worked our way down the mountain and stopped at Fish Creek Viewing and the rangers said to go have dinner and try in a couple of hours. We drove to the end on the Hyder boat launch and Kathy made Albondigas and we watched the seals fish in the harbor. I took a cool picture of an old pier and looking back up the 90 mile Portland Fjords.

We finished and cleaned up around 7 and when we got to Fish Creek Viewing area the rangers said a mom and her cub were fishing. He was gracious to let us in without paying with a promise we’d hit them up on the way out. It was great to finally see some bears fishing and chomping on salmon.

it was growing dark and on the way out we met up with a nice guy and his wife who have been in the road in their 5th wheel for 4 years. They move every 1-3 weeks and work while on the road. We learned a lot from them and how to save costs, visit places, etc. We have not been doing tours because we have the pups and our budget doesn’t allow for it. They save on gas by parking for a while and then take tours occasionally. This Friday they were taking a fishing boat out and would get crabs, salmon, and halibut. The charter is $1200 but is split between fishermen, so it was costing them $400 each as another was joining them. They live to fish and have spent the summer in Homer, the Russian River, Valdez, etc filling their freezer. He said he had over 700 lbs they were taking back with them. Apparently personal use and labeled fish are ok to transport across borders. They told us stories about issues with cases of wine and the Canadians when they did not declare it. It was confiscated and to get it back they had to pay the import tax. It’s easier to just declare.

We got back to the hotel about 10 pm after a pretty amazing day. Here are some more pictures of the day.

https://www.overlandadventureexcursions.com/photos-albums/nggallery/album/20250827-salmon-glacier-and-fishing-bears

20250826 – Stewart, BC

We continued along the Cassier Highway for a second day and stopped for the night in Stewart, BC. This town was a place I wanted to spend a couple of days with Kathy just exploring. There is a great little place called the Ripley Creek Inn that I had seen when I was here in 2019 and wanted to treat us to a couple of nights there.

It is a cute little inn consisting of the 8-12 buildings on a city block interconnected with boardwalks, treed canopies, gardens, and a collection of interesting items from the past 125 years including old sewing machines, mining equipment, old transistor radios, and even a couple of tugboats. Such a cute place.

We looked around and relaxed in their yards before hiking on a local trail of boardwalks over the tidal marsh. We spotted more pink salmon in the creeks and watched a quiet harbor. Interestingly we found out the town of Stewart was named after a couple of American brothers that settled the area while the neighboring town across the border of Hyder, AK was named after a Canadian Engineer.

We finished our walk and took the pups to the camper. We had a nice dinner at a local pizza place. The pizza was interesting in that the meats of pepperoni I and salami were sandwich meats rather than what we were used to. It was good, just different and almost like a panini instead. We returned for some showers and a nice time in the Inn.

a couple of chickens roamed as well.

and of course, there were tugboats.

20250825 – Canadian campgrounds

We camped at Wolf Creek Campground just SE of Whitehorse last night. It’s a Yukon Regional Park official campsite. Every time I camp in a Canadian campground I am impressed. They are far superior to most all campgrounds I have experienced in the US National Parks, BLM, or FS. Tonight $18 CAD (which is about $12 US).

It’s funny because they are not much different except they seem to have more amenities for a lower cost. The camps are easily paid for with cash or with an app. Most have reserved sites and some first come first serve, so there is almost always a site for spontaneous travelers. Some sites have RV dumps and water available as well for free. And they are generally better set up and maintained.

AND there are wood sheds with wood available FOR FREE. US parks often don’t allow wood gathering and require you to purchase it from the camp host, bring it in from home (as long as its not too far so as to no bring in pests), or purchase it from the local store for a $7-10 cost per bundle, on top of the $20-24 campsite fee. A weekend at a US campsite will cost you $50-75 in fees and $50-100 in firewood if you burn nights and morning fires. Plan for a week and that could reach $400. Ridiculous. Everything in the US is behind a paywall, which I could understand for private campgrounds, but these are resources owned and operated by the Gov for the people.

In Canada it’s all included for $18 CAD.

And it’s not free market, IMO, it’s mismanagement of our government resources. What can we do to change this?

20250823-24 – Dyea and Skagway, goodbye Alaska

We stayed two nights in the ghost town campground of Dyea. This place was home to 5000-7000 folks during the gold rush years of 1897-1898. Along with Skagway, it was the land gateway to the Klondike. Skagway made it due to its deep harbor and the new railroad and roadway connection. Dyea died out and turned to farmland for a while. They tried to build a pier, but with it being over a mile long and still not into deep water, that has also fallen to ruin.

The campground is nice though. Quiet and remote. We did some reading in the nice weather, took a long hike through the trails of the town and gave the dogs some exercise. Kathy and I took an afternoon stroll to the salmon stream and walked in its waters and chased and caught some of the salmon. We had a pretty good couple of days there.

We packed up on Sunday and headed back to Skagway to get a shower at the recreation center. For $10 a day you can get access to the facilities and the showers. It was nice to get cleaned up. We also stopped by the grocery store for some tortillas, creamer, and sodas and then had brunch at a place on the pier that was suggested by the rec center attendant. Kathy had some king crab legs and I enjoyed some fish and chips while chatting with some locals and tourists.

We drove back up the canyon through Whites Pass and crossed back into Canada without the inspection from customs. We may be back in Alaska one more time, but this was the last big visit. It is lived and will be missed.

I was able to contact the old friend we missed in Whitehorse and we met up at Miles Canyon there for a hike. It was a beautiful day and we hiked 3 miles to another ghost town from the early days along the Yukon River.

It was already 7:30 when we set out to gas up, and were able to visit the RV dump and water station as well. We found an awesome campground at Wolf creek right out of town and enjoyed the Canadian Regional park for the night.

Here are some additional photos from the past days.
https://www.overlandadventureexcursions.com/photos-albums/nggallery/album/20250823-24-dyea-and-skagway

20250821-22 – Kluane Lake to Whitehorse and on to Skagway

I got a call from a guy I met the last time I was in Alaska and he lives in Whitehorse. We had planned on heading to Haines, then catch the ferry to Juneau/Gustavus/skagway for a few days. After looking at the ferry routes, considering the pups on this, and the extra costs, wedecided to reroute a to visit and catch up instead. We got to Whitehorse and tried to meet up. We waited at the local Canadian Tyre parking lot, I walked 3+ miles through the old town, visited a farmers market, and saw some sites. Unfortunately for some reason the meet up did not work out, so we got a sub at Quiznos, drove out of town and found camp just above the Yukon River outside of town and settled down for the night.

One of the things I love about Alaska and Northern Canada is the boreal forests. They have small to medium trees and an always beautiful carpet of moss, lichens, bushes, etc on the forest floor. Wher I grew up in Arizona, the forests are ponderosa pines, some scrub oak, and maybe junipers trees, but the forest floor is generally covered in pine needles or scarce grasses. They don’t have the diversity of life I see here. It is absolutely due to the difference in moisture, and I really enjoy that here. Well, we camped in the boreal forest and it’s so beautiful.

Ok, still not hearing a single response from the guy from the past, we headed towards Skagway. Along the way we stopped at a historic site called Conrad along a glacial valley and lake. Conrad was an old mining village in the early 1900s. A couple of the cabins were being restored, but most had been moved and repurposed to the nearby town of Carnack. I was excited to hike the trails as there were reports of a black bear in the area, but Kathy was not too keen on it.

The drive through this area I believe is more beautiful than the one found to Valdez along the Richardson Highway. In this area there are mirror surfaced lakes, pools, glacial rivers and streams, along a glacier cut mountain top valley. This is berry season and tons of folks are out with their buckets scouring the roadside.

We crossed into the USA and were inspected by US customs who wanted to go through our fridge. We had purchased everything in Fairbanks so the contraband Canadian eggs, meats, or dog food was not present. The last US entry did not seem to care. It may be because we can catch a boat to the lower 48 here, but it seemed odd. Anyway, we continued down the beautiful valley into Skagway.

The valley is famous for the White trail (and the Kilkoot trail in the adjacent valley) during the Klondike Gold rush. In two years over 100,000 people from all over the world traveled through here to get to Dawson City to stake claims. Most turned around once they got there and went home due to finding nothing or not even being able to dig on a claim. These people from 125 years ago were much harder than people from today. I can’t imagine anyone trekking this far in this day and age.

We arrived in Skagway and walked the pups then browsed around town with the cruise ship tourists. They get up to 4 ships a day here and it is crowded. We had a nice dinner at the Red Onion Saloon and Brothel and then headed over tho the Dyea area to camp. I balked at the one lane bridge at the first pass because it showed a 11’5” limit and we are about that. But after testing, it was this at the sides, so we drove right through. We found a campsite and set up quickly. I set out on a hike to the ocean and found lots of salmon, dead and alive, along the stream. It was a warmer evening than recent places.

We don’t seem to be taking as many photos as when we first started. Anyway, we may stay a couple of nights here.
https://www.overlandadventureexcursions.com/photos-albums/nggallery/album/20250821-22-whitehorse-and-skagway

20250819-20 – Alcan South

We drove the 30 miles back up to Fairbanks to pick up Sean’s Rx and then had a nice lunch at a local burger place. We turned Howie south again and drove until about 6 pm on AK Highway 1. There were some beautiful rest stops along the way and we took a few pictures.

We found a nice little campground along the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge and met a nice couple from Michigan and another from Oklahoma. We didn’t see any big game, but there was a pair of Trumpeter Swans swimming around the lake.

There are lots of road repairs along the highway and several times we waited for pilot cars. I didn’t call it construction because the highway department up here is constantly dealing with road issues related to the seasonal weather. Freezing and melting of the land is not easy on the roads.

We crossed back into Canada on the 20th and continued South. We started to see Fall colors down here as many trees are turning yellow and the shrubs in the forests are orange and red. We found a nice wild beach campsite along Kluane Lake near the Congdon Creek Regional Park in the Yukon. We collected some wood, had a nice fire, and then retreated inside as the rain started. It rained all night. Tomorrow we cross back into the USA and arrive in Haines.

20250816-18 Day 7, End of The Dalton, Fairbanks

We left the Arctic Circle campground about 10 AM and headed the 190 miles back to Fairbanks. We arrive in Fairbanks around 3 and headed straight to the car wash. We planned to get cleaned up but we’d never stay clean with Howie in this condition.

The road salt/mud was caked on the body, frame, and all around the camper. $75 and 60 minutes later it was much better. I still will get underneath in the near future and work the frame a bit but for now this will do.

It was coming along 5 pm and we headed to a local campground for the night. We got a deal at this place, even though it was $40 with power, it included free showers. The dogs barely got to pee before Kathy was headed to the showers with her gear.

The next two days were expensive on the budget. We spent an additional $350 for groceries and supplies,;$25 on laundry (cheap really); $90 on campgrounds; $100 on diesel, propane, and truck supplies. Going to town costs money.

Sean had his final cardiology tele-appointment so we stayed in Fairbanks. We also had to fill prescriptions for Kathy and Walgreens in AK is not fast. Sean’s appointment results were fantastic with reports that the AFib was not permanent, his heart echocardiogram showed no issues, and the imaging/stress test showed no arterial plaque or other issues. The doc wants to keep me on the Rx so we will have to head back into Fairbanks to get those tomorrow.

We decided to head south a bit to get away from the pay campsites and to visit the North Pole. We enjoyed the Christmas store and all of the Yule spirit, got a few postcards, and then found a free camp next to the Salcha River. Here’s a picture from the Howie’s door.

here are some additional photos from the past few days.
https://www.overlandadventureexcursions.com/photos-albums/nggallery/album/20250816-18-day-7-end-of-the-dalton-fairbanks

20250815 – Dalton Highway – Day 6

We left after the swim in the Arctic Ocean and drove south. The weather was turning and snow was expected. We wanted to make it through Atigun Pass before we stopped but it ended up being too far. I think we ended up stopping at a rest area around 8PM. We woke up to two inches of snow on the camper the next morning. Fortunately we still had propane and Howie stayed nice and warm all night.

The road is well traveled and maintained due to the hauling that occurs so other than being muddy, the pass was beautifully blanketed in snow and the road was clear. We made it to Coldfoot in the late afternoon, fueled up, and pushed onward. I wanted to get back to Fairbanks because we were low on propane and were about 8 days in since a shower and 7 days since food supply, tank dumps, and fresh water.

The road was tiring to drive with the constant watch for potholes and dips. I managed to avoid most of them but one bad one bent the eye bolt on the repaired side. Fortunately no damage to the wood repairs was evident, but when we got to the camp at the BLM Arctic Circle Campground I had to attach the chain to the jack mount again as the eye bolt threads were stripped.

The pups were glad to get a walk in although it was slightly raining. We hunkered down for the night and slept well. The propane still managed to keep us warm all night.

here are some additional photos of the day.
https://www.overlandadventureexcursions.com/photos-albums/nggallery/album/20250815-dalton-highway-day-6

20250814 – PanAm Mile 0 – Prudhoe Bay, AK

Yesterday was an epic day for us. We spent a second night just outside of Deadhorse, AK because we had reservations for the shuttle up to the Arctic Ocean. Since we did not know which day we’d be there, I scheduled it when we arrived and it requires 24+ hours so they can receive clearance for us to enter the oil fields. It was definitely worth it as we slept in and rested until the tour started at 3:30. The day started out a bit sunny and then by 2 some clouds had come in and the temperature had dropped into the low 40’s.

I’m going to put Kathy’s text from her Facebook post in here as it perfectly describes our adventure.

Such an amazing day that will not be forgotten.

Yesterday we traveled to the Arctic Ocean to officially start our Pan-American journey. On the way to the beach (only accessible by shuttle and required a security clearance), we were able to see a heard of caribou being stalked by a grizzly bear. We also saw a red fox and numerous kinds of water foul along the way. Once we arrived at the beach both Sean and I took a quick dip in the ocean to commemorate the event. When finished, we were surprised to receive certificates declaring membership in the Arctic Polar Bear Club from the shuttle driver. It was an unexpected tribute for something we almost didn’t go through with due to the extremely frigid conditions, but we are so glad we did. On our way to the campground we witnessed a heard of wild muskox grazing off the side of the road. It was such a magnificent site. After we got settled in Howie, we toasted this extraordinary day and once in a lifetime occasion with a shot of Penelope bourbon (gifted to Sean by his coworkers to mark this event) and then as we readied for a peaceful and fulfilling sleep, it began to snow.

here are some photos of the day.
https://www.overlandadventureexcursions.com/photos-albums/nggallery/album/20250814-mile-0-prudhoe-bay-ak

20250813 – Dalton Highway Day 4 – Deadhorse

This post is the last for our journey North. Today we arrived at Deadhorse and the end of the Dalton Highway. Tomorrow we will set foot in Prudhoe Bay, touch the Beaufort Sea, and swim in the Arctic Ocean. We have been traveling now for 72 days and have covered 10,700 miles to this point. It seems like yesterday that we started, yet we have done and seen much up to this point. And today is the end of this portion of the trip.

We drove around Deadhorse for a bit and stopped at the general store to get some stickers and mail some postcards at the post office. We did finally see some beautiful caribou (there is no hunting in this oil town).

The place reminded me of my time in Iraq and Afghanistan at the bases there. Connexes everywhere, industrial yards, big equipment. It was dusty, industrial, and was there for one thing, extracting oil. It was calculated that there were over 3 billion barrels of oil in the reserves up here and about half has been extracted. Initially the oil reserves 6-8k down were at 4000 psi, making extraction easier as it spewed from the Christmas trees (well valves at the top) and into an extensive piping structure that collected in the pump house where it was separated from water and debris and pumped into the Alaska pipeline for the 600 mile journey to Valdez. Today about half is left and the pressures are around 2k psi and fracking and other methods are being used to squeeze the oil from the wells. There is still another reserve a hundred miles to the east, but that is in a preserve and has not been exploited yet.

There are two places to eat in Deadhorse, Brooks Camp hotel and The Aurora Hotel. Both are cafeteria style with a planned buffet and salad bar. They were serving steaks and seafood and we decided it was a night to celebrate our final mile and the beginning of the first mile of our Pan American Highway. Dinner started at 4:30 so we found a place to park and cleaned up, took a nap, and relaxed in the 55 degree weather.

Brooks Camp Restaurant did not disappoint. Again, this reminded me of those years I was deployed where the work was long and hard for 12-14 hours per day and the highlights were the meal breaks where we could get good food and feel a bit normal life. We shared a huge steak (the size of a whole plate), ate a fresh salad, some huge fried shrimp, chicken cordon blue, and potatoes and mushrooms. We spent an hour in there, eating at a table, reminiscing of the journey so far, and planning for the next day.

Back at camp, we settled in for the night. We spotted a red fox running around camp. He was cautious of us, but while I was outside he got within 25 feet of the truck. Here are some additional photos for the day.
https://www.overlandadventureexcursions.com/photos-albums/nggallery/album/20250813-deadhorse-and-the-dalton-day-4